John Lewis Replaces in-Store Eateries with New Dining Concept

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This is a massive risk for John Lewis. They are betting that middle-class shoppers would rather drop £12 on a “vibrant grain bowl” than £4 on a jacket potato with cheap beans. I, for one, am both terrified and intrigued. Will the British public accept a fancy cafeteria? Or will they revolt, forming a lynch mob armed with small spoons?

The early signs are positive. Surprising fact: The new concept has already increased “dwell time” by 18% in test stores. That means shoppers are spending nearly an extra ten minutes sitting, eating, and—crucially—spending more money on lamps and cushions. It’s a diabolically clever trap: feed them well, and they’ll buy a rug.

Ultimately, this is the story of a British institution trying to stay relevant in a world of hipster coffee shops and wild garlic pesto. It’s a beautiful, ridiculous gamble. And if nothing else, it means we can finally say goodbye to those terrifying, sweaty ham-and-cheese sandwiches. Good riddance.